Teatum Jones made a statement with their autumn/winter 2017 collection presentation entitled The Body | Part 1.
A killer soundtrack, mixing tracks and spoken word themed around “reclaiming the body” including Massive Attack’s Teardrop, Rag’n’Bone Man’s Human and Meryl Streep’s Golden Globe references to Trump’s comments about a reporter with disabilities, backed up a presentation informed by a study of our relationship with the human body. Referencing artist Hans Bellmer’s doll project, which sought reject the cult of the seemingly perfect body reigning in Nazi Germany at the time, Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones’s collection emphasises strong and varied silhouettes via garments and model choice.
Fabrics were deconstructed and reconstructed while models of different ethnicities, genders, physiques – some with visible disabilities – walked the runway one after another, challenging the primacy of conventional concepts of perfection.
Imperfect geometrical shapes coloured the fabrics and collaboration with British artist Tom Leamon introduced subtle marks to create wearable art.
Uneven lengths – too short, too long – a multitude of layered textures – silks, cable knit, leather – and contrasting lines – cinched in waists with fish tail skirts – accentuated a lack of uniformity.
Oversized coats with industrial-sized eyelets carried a sheer PVC covering, strapped waistlines swept down to extra long tapes and woollen layers, produced in collaboration with Hawick, hung heavy while simultaneously baring skin. Elongated looks were accentuated by teetering caged stilettos and encrusted platform heels by Christian Louboutin.
Reflecting the SS17 collection, three colour palettes were presented in waves starting off with moody midnight navies cut through with chrome silver, followed by off-centre autumnal tones such as mustard yellows, salmon pinks and rich burgundies and more delicate cornflower blues. The narrative ended on a much starker contrast of post box red and smoky grey set against black and white.
An empowered, political and varied collection where beauty is found in difference, echoing the words heard over the presentation: “We are perfect because of our imperfections.”
By Sarah Bradbury. First published on The Upcoming on 17th February 2017.
Photos: Krish Nagari
For further information about Teatum Jones visit here.